Flavor upon flavor is built into this dish by cooking dried pasta, made with egg—in a skillet, directly in the liquid that becomes the pasta sauce. The noodles' delicate texture pairs perfectly with sweet, briny shrimp and the nuttiness of browned butter. Use larger-sized shrimp, large or extra-large, so they remain tender and plump. Crushed red pepper flakes and lemon juice brighten and balance the richness of this dish.

Adapted from

Milk Street Magazine, 2020

Serves 4

INGREDIENTS:

6 tablespoons salted butter, divided

1½ pounds large or extra-large shrimp, peeled, deveined and patted dry

Kosher salt, taste

Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Crushed red pepper flakes, to taste

8 ounces dried tagliatelle or pappardelle pasta

4 scallions, cut into 1-inch lengths

Juice of 2 lemons

DIRECTIONS:

Melt 2 tablespoons butter in a large skillet.

Add shrimp and a bit of salt and pepper. Cook without stirring until browned on the bottom. Transfer to a bowl and set aside.

Brown remaining butter in the same skillet. Add 3 cups water, just a sprinkling of pepper flakes and salt and black pepper to taste, then simmer. Add pasta, cover and cook, until al dente. Uncover and reduce slightly.

Over low, stir in scallions and shrimp. Off heat, season with lemon juice, salt, pepper and pepper flakes.

COOK’S NOTES:

You can use cooked, frozen shrimp in this recipe, if that is what you have on hand in your freezer. Just thaw the shrimp in the refrigerator prior to cooking this dish add them to the skillet, over low heat, to prevent them from being over cooked.